The Model Photographer: Ellen Von Unwerth

 

This is the first post in a series that will highlight some of the world’s top photographers.

As a 10-year-old, I spent most of my free time trying to emulate Walt Frazier of the New York Knicks (though I had the Puma Clydes, I couldn’t quite keep up with the Rolls Royce, fur coats, and basketball talent).

Fifteen years later, I found myself spending hours upon hours studying the images of photographers such as Gilles Bensimon and Peter Lindbergh.

Those are two examples of how to dramatically improve at anything you have a passion for: Identifying the artists of work that excites you and then putting in the time to figure what makes them so special.

Guitar players study Jimmy Page, architects study I.M. Pei, and photographers study Ansel Adams.

However, when it comes to Ansel Adams, if your desire is to improve your glamour photography, studying his groundbreaking nature images might not be all that helpful (and learning the opening riff to “Whole Lotta Love” might help even less).

Fortunately, there are many excellent photographers whose work you can learn from.

Not all the photographers that I’ll highlight in this ongoing series will be known primarily as “Glamour Photographers”. However, each photographer I feature will have a style that incorporates a sense of glamour and sensuality in his or her work.

As an example, top fashion photographers are known for shooting very glamorous images. However, at the end of the day, their primary job requirement is to make the clothes look good.

Still, fashion shooters are some of the most talented photographers in the world.

And without question, one of the very best is Ellen Von Unwerth.

Strictly speaking, the German-born Von Unwerth, would be defined as a “fashion photographer.” However, her work transcends the typical definition of that specific style.

And best of all for us, photographers of any experience level can benefit from studying the techniques and shooting methods used by Von Unwerth.

To give you a bit of background, Von Unwerth made her living in front of the camera starting at the age of 20. She worked as a leading fashion model for ten years. However, the gift of a camera from a boyfriend dramatically changed the direction of her life and career.

Simply for fun, she took the camera to a modeling job in Africa and simply snapped pictures of the local people and environment. However, upon her return to Europe, her pictures were promptly purchased and published in a magazine called Jill.

And just like that, without a shred of formal training, a new career was born.

Today, Von Unwerth is one of the most sought-after photographers in the world. She shoots fashion and editorial spreads for leading fashion magazines, celebrity portraits, and some of the worlds biggest ad campaigns. Without question, Von Unwerth is firmly entrenched at the top of her field.

And she deserves to be.

But here’s the important question for you and me: What’s in it for us? What can we learn from the work of Von Unwerth?

Fortunately, quite a bit.

Of course, the point of studying the work of other photographers is not to steal their styles. Rather, it’s to study the details and characteristics of high quality work and take note of what makes certain pictures and certain photographers so special.

In the case of Von Unwerth, what stands out most is the vibrant sense of sexual spontaneity that appears in her work.

The models in her photographs convey a sense of movement and freedom that sets her work apart from the majority of other leading fashion photographers.

Von Unwerth’s style didn’t come about by accident. And it didn’t come from a conscious decision to set herself apart from her peers.

The truth is that her style came from her time spent modeling. As a model, she didn’t like the static nature of traditional fashion photography. Holding poses for long lengths of time and having photographers make tiny changes to these poses was the way fashion photography had always been done.

When she embarked on her own photographic career, she rebelled against that style.

She’s known for creating interesting environments and then inserting the models into them. Once there, the models are encouraged to enjoy and interact with the environment in a playful, curious, and natural way.

Without using explicit direction, Von Unwerth is there to capture the results in an equally spontaneous manner.

She allows her models to simply be themselves during shoots. This is a drastic departure from the way most fashion work is shot.

She has an uncanny ability to put both models and celebrities at ease. She is more interested in giving her subjects the freedom to express their emotions than she is in capturing technically spot-on images.

Whether shooting in black & white or color, her signature style revolves around the idea of women embracing their sexuality and their femininity at the same time.

Her fashion and editorial work manages to incorporate a stunning sense of eroticism, role-playing, and even sadomasochism. Obviously, quite different from typical fashion photography.

But whatever the subject, Von Unwerth encourages her models to freely express themselves in any way they like. Most likely, this is the reason that no matter how exposed her model’s bodies may be, they never appear objectified in any way. Von Unwerth allows her models to show their true personalities as well as their nude bodies.

You might want to try this way of shooting. I think it would be a worthwhile exercise for any photographer (especially for those who like to keep tight control over their shoots and their model’s poses).

My advice:

Give it a try, you have nothing to lose. I think you’ll be quite surprised by the results.

 

 

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Are There Limits in Glamour and Nude Photography?

 

By almost any standard of glamour photography, this image is definitely unique. In contrast to the usual intent to portray models as attractively as possible, this particular shot presents a model in apparent anguish.

I find pictures like this one to be very interesting. It’s as if the picture is part of a story that the viewer knows nothing about. And since the viewer has no idea what’s going on, he gets to make up his own narrative regarding the shot.

But instead of trying to come up with our own explanation of the picture, let’s examine some of the techniques that went into making it such an effective image.

First, the mere fact that it’s in black & white adds a “documentary” style vibe to the shot.

Second, the contorted body position is also very different then what is typically seen in glamour work. The expression on the women’s face accurately conveys a true sense of despair (not an easy thing for a model to do).

However, what I like most about this picture is the unusual perspective of the model’s hand reaching toward the camera (with her arm creating an interesting diagonal to the composition). To get this perspective, use a low shooting angle and a wide-angle lens.

 

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The Case For Tightly Cropped Images

 

This shot is a good example of eliminating extraneous subject matter from an image, leaving only what is absolutely necessary to make the picture work.

I imagine that many viewers of this shot would consider the extremely tight crop to be a bit “claustrophobic.” However, it’s obvious that the photographers main desire was to emphasize the model’s face and breasts as much as possible. Using that standard, the tight crop serves the image well.

A case could certainly be made for showing a bit more of the model; and I have no doubt that the set of images that this picture came from included shots that did just that. However, there’s nothing wrong with reducing an image down to it’s most important parts.

Another aspect of the shot to take note of is the tack-sharpness of the model’s left eye (the eye closest to the camera). The focus on the model’s left eye causes the shot to “read” as sharply focused, in spite of the fact that the rest of the image is noticeably “soft.”

Unless you’re intentionally putting the focus somewhere else for creative reasons, it’s nearly always a good idea to make sure that the eye of your model that is closest to the camera is the most sharply focused area of the composition.

 

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Glamour Photography: The Importance Of Wardrobe

Whoever it was who came up with the slogan, “No Shirt, No Service!” never ran into the woman in this picture. I strongly believe if the two of them had ever crossed paths, the model seen here would have undoubtedly received excellent service.

In truth, this image is a great example of how a model wearing clothing can often result in a sexier and more striking image than a model who is entirely – or nearly – nude.

Admittedly, this isn’t your average picture of a clothed model. While it’s technically true she’s wearing a long sleeve shirt and jeans, she definitely has her own take on how to wear them.

Often, styling a model’s clothing in a unique way – such as seen in this picture – can be the key to creating compelling images.

Once you get your styling ideas just right, you can turn to the other variables that can help make an image truly stand out. As an example, something that makes the shot seen here so special is the relatively hard lighting that comes from left of the camera

The placement of the lighting is what causes the glistening curves and crevices of the model’s nearly nude body to be accentuated.

In addition, this lighting placement is what enables the droplets of water on her skin to be far more visible than they would have been if a softer and less directional lighting setup had been used.

 

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Tears & Fishnets: Documentary-Style Glamour Pictures

 

I like the feel of this picture. It’s a documentary style photo that will definitely leave an impression on any viewer. Those who view this shot will inevitably come up with their own scenario for what may be occurring.

For example, my personal narrative involves a young French girl from the country who ran away to Paris, got caught up in prostitution, and is now having a breakdown in an extremely brightly lit alcove on the Champs-Élysées. Don’t worry, I’ll spare you any further details.

In spite of the tears and overall negative vibe of this image, it’s still a sexy and glamorous shot in it’s own way (torn fishnet stockings have a way of doing that). Certainly, the picture is staged (the reflection of the light on the wall gives the reality away fairly quickly).

However, I find images like this to be interesting. More than anything else, they remind me of still pictures taken during the process of making of a film.

If this style of photography appeals to you, an important thing to remember is to resist the urge to overly direct your model. Instead, encourage her to get lost in a role; in much the same way you would direct an actress.

There are two additional things to learn from this picture. First, be careful not to reveal your lighting setup. Second, it’s almost impossible to go wrong with a combination of fishnet stockings and smeared mascara.

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Making Your Models Wet: It’s Easier Than You Think

It was only a few years ago that taking a simple nude underwater shot like the one seen here would have been an expensive and frustrating task.

Until fairly recently, the protective cases that allowed photographers to shoot underwater were cumbersome and a huge hassle to use. These cases could turn a basic 35mm SLR into a contraption the size of a shoebox.

However, today there are convenient underwater cases for virtually all brands and types of cameras (and for phones as well).

Now that the technical factors required for underwater nude photography have been reasonably dealt with, photographers are free to devote their energies to shooting creative, high-quality images.

In addition to casual shots like the one seen here, shooting underwater gives you the chance to take elegant and beautiful glamour photographs that would be impossible to pull off on dry land (check out zenaholloway.com for some great examples).

However, better cases alone don’t make taking great underwater shots a simple task. You’ll quickly discover that shooting underwater adds an entirely new set of variables to the photographic process.

For example, if you go the low-tech route, it’ll take some time for you and your model to get the necessary timing down. The two of you will have to coordinate your time underwater in order to give you the best opportunity to capture good shots.

Scuba gear can be very helpful for the serious underwater shooter; allowing the photographer to stay underwater for long amounts of time (however, I must admit that my nude shoots have definitely been on the low-tech side of things).

One warning: If you’ve never before attempted to shoot glamour images underwater, be prepared to take a lot of pictures. The ratio of total shots to good shots can be very disappointing if you’re not prepared for it.

While shooting glamour and nude underwater shots may not be something you’ll end up devoting much time or effort to, it’s definitely worth trying at least once.

Just enough to get your feet wet.

 

 

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The World Of Fetish Photography: Anything Goes

As “Fetish” shots go, this one is about as tame as it gets. Even so, it does possess some qualities that are often associated with the Fetish photography style.

Of all the genres that fall under the large umbrella of nude photography, the category of Fetish is the one most open to personal interpretation and experimentation.

Though fairly mild, this particular shot contains some traditional Fetish characteristics: 6-inch stiletto heels, torn panty hose, a barbed wire tattoo, a skewed shooting angle that adds a certain peculiarity to the composition, and a tall, strong woman holding a cat-of-nine tails.

However, these items merely scratch the surface of what can be described as “Fetish”. When it comes down to it, anything can be a fetish. Absolutely anything. Fetish culture is constantly expanding and changing. In fact, what may have been considered a fetish just a few years ago may now be considered mainstream.

Within the fetish world, there are absolutely no limitations. Consequently, within the fetish photography world, there are absolutely no limitations.

Don’t worry about censoring yourself. Anything goes. It may be a hard concept to wrap your head around, but it’s true: Anything goes.

Absolutely anything.

 

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Shooting for Adult Magazines: Variety is the Key

If you have a goal to make money from your glamour, nude, or erotic photography by shooting for “Adult” magazines, you’ll need to get used to shooting “image sets.”

An image set is a a series of individual images that comprise a logical and cohesive group.

It’s from these image sets that magazines choose what pictures will be featured in the actual magazine layout.

Within the field of “adult-oriented” nude photography, most image sets begin with the model fully clothed and end with the model fully nude. Essentially, a fairly  obvious “striptease”  type of progression.

Your image sets should consist of between 100 to 150 images. This amount  will give editors and art directors a variety of shots to choose from (without overwhelming them with too many).

It’s important  that your sets include a wide range of different looks.

This range should include a mixture of poses, camera angles, amounts of clothing worn by the model, and degrees of explicitness as far as poses (make sure your poses are appropriate for the magazine you’re shooting for).

You’ll also need to shoot a selection of both horizontal and vertical images.

Some poses work especially well in a vertical format, some work especially well in a horizontal format, and some can go either way. The image seen here is one in which a horizontal format is the obvious choice.

If you typically take the majority of your shots in one orientation or the other, you’ll need to train yourself to mix things up. Ideally, you’ll want about half the shots to be vertical and half to be horizontal. It’s not necessary to be exact, just make sure that your set includes a good representation of both formats.

Remember, the more variety your image sets contain, the more likely you are to profit from them.

 

 

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Tips, Techniques, and Ideas for Glamour and Nude Photography

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Tips For Photographing Young Models

This image includes two factors you’ll want to know about if you’re going to shoot glamour and nude  photographs of young women.

I took this shot as part of a set for a magazine that features younger woman (primarily 18 and 19-year-olds).

When shooting nude images of models this age it’s important not to style the shoot in a way that makes them  look even younger than they actually are.

Believe it or not, it wasn’t long ago that publications featuring young models had them posing with teddy  bears and lollipops. Fortunately, that style is very rarely seen these days.

However, you’ll still want your pictures to portray young models as having a sense of youthful innocence. To  help do this, I instructed this model to apply minimal makeup. I also supplied her with accessories that  convey a relatively youthful style (pink hairband and bracelets).

Along with the youthful styling, there is a second important factor in this image that is often overlooked by  many photographers.

At first glance, it appears that the model is resting her head on her left hand. However, in reality, she’s holding her head up so it barely touches her hand. The reason for this is that if she were to actually rest her head on her hand, the left side of her face would – for lack of a better word – have a “squished” look to it.

This potential problem is something you’ll have to keep an eye on no matter what style of photography you’re doing or what age model you’re shooting.

 ________

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How to Use Only One Light For Dramatic Nude Pictures

I’ve always been very fond of this particular image.

This image was taken using a single tungsten hot light. My goal was to accentuate the model’s muscularity and body definition as much as possible while using only a single light source.

When your goal is to emphasize detailed body definition, it’s a good idea to use hot lights. Hot lights are commonly used when shooting bodybuilders and fitness models.

The benefit of using hot lights when shooting this type of image is that the light stays on constantly (in contrast to flash lighting). This constant light enables you to easily move the light equipment around the subject and observe how different positions effect how the light falls upon your subject.

Side-lighting (or a position very close to side-lighting) will further serve to bring out details of your model’s body.

In this shot, I love the look of the deep crevice in the model’s back. I was able to accent this area by positioning the light into a location that I felt was ideal.

As you can probably imagine, this would have been a drastically different – and far less dramatic – picture if the light had been positioned directly in front of her.

To further enhance musculature and body definition, a light layer of body oil was applied just before we began shooting.

Finally, a dappled dark grey muslin backdrop was used to give the background a bit of texture and to contrast sharply with her naked body. I remember this shoot like it was done yesterday.

 

 _________

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Nude Photo Shoots: Sometimes You Get Lucky

Every glamour and nude shoot is unpredictable and takes on a life of its own. There are simply too many variables involved in a photography shoot to know for sure how things will play out.

Almost without exception, each job will present you with at least one problem you’ll have to solve if you’re going to get the pictures you want.

However, this situation doesn’t need to be viewed as a negative.

Instead, simply approach each problem that arises as a puzzle to be solved and an opportunity to learn something new. Taking this view will quickly make you a better and more efficient photographer.

Furthermore, since things rarely go exactly as planned, a bit of uncertainty going into shoots is a feeling you’ll need to get used to if you’re going to shoot high quality glamour and nude images.

 

BUT SOMETIMES YOU GET LUCKY…

On extremely rare occasions, you’ll find that the stars line up just right and a shoot flows perfectly from start to finish. You never know when a shoot like this is going to take place and you can’t really do anything to make it occur.

Sometimes it just happens.

Of the hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of jobs I’ve done, I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve experienced this type of shoot.

The shot seen here is from one of those rare times.

Though it may not look like it, this image is from Lily’s first ever photo shoot. Without question, she was an absolute natural: Fearless in front of the camera, completely uninhibited, and possessing great natural modeling instincts.

I met Lily through another model I had worked with. That model mentioned that she had a friend who was interested in trying nude modeling. I agreed to meet with her friend and the next day Lily showed up at my door.

I quickly saw that she had a very interesting look and immediately arranged to shoot her for a website called MoonAngel. MoonAngel is a cool website that focuses  on Asian women. The site succeeds in pulling off the often difficult combination of beautiful, yet still very sensual, images.

The owners of MoonAngel like to have a lot of color in their pictures – colorful sets, colorful clothing, colorful makeup, colorful everything.

When I spoke to Lily on the phone before the shoot, I briefly explained the job and asked her to bring a few colorful things with her. A fairly ambiguous request such as that will usually not get great results. However, this particular time – thanks to Lily – it worked like a dream.

She arrived at my house on the night of the shoot carrying three shopping bags of new clothes that she had bought specifically for the job. She told me she had spent the previous few hours on Hollywood Boulevard, “Looking for colorful stuff!”

Considering the requirements for this particular shoot, the world’s best stylist couldn’t have done a better job. Not only did Lily succeed in getting colorful stuff, she also succeeded in getting unique and fun items that worked perfectly.

Her shopping bags contained panties, T-shirts, skirts, stockings, knee socks, leggings, lingerie, shoes, and much more. Additionally, everything was in bright pinks, oranges, lime greens, and yellows.

Along with the clothing, she brought a selection of very cool accessories: bracelets, anklets, rings, necklaces, and even a pink lollipop.

She was also extremely skilled at doing her own makeup and hair in ways that perfectly matched the colorful themes. She put together three different looks that night; and every one of them was spot on.

And to top it off, Lily had the rare ability to come up with some amazingly unique poses that were…well…you just had to be there.

The pictures I took that night are still some of my all-time favorites.

As I said, sometimes you get lucky.

Sometimes it just happens.

 
 
 

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The Best iPhone Tripod Adapter

I recently stumbled upon a nifty little gadget that you might find very useful. And on an unrelated note, I just achieved my lifelong dream of using the phrase “nifty little gadget” in a sentence.

And what is this nifty little gadget?

Hold your horses. Cool your jets. I’ll get to it. But first things first.

Though it’s still hard for me to believe, phones today can take extremely sharp, high-quality images.

While it’s certainly true they have definite creative limitations (no ability to control aperture or shutter speed, for example), they’re still pretty remarkable.

In fact, there may be times when you’ll want to use your phone to create an image beyond just a “snapshot.” And when that time arrives, the use of a tripod may be in order. After all, phones are susceptible to camera shake too.

You’re probably already aware that there’s an abundance of little tripods made specifically for phones. While these tiny tripods possess a high cuteness factor, their practicality is questionable.

This is where this nifty little gadget comes into play:

The Gary Fong Tripod Adapter for the iPhone 4 and the iPhone 3GS

The beauty of the Gary Fong Tripod Adapter is that it lets you easily mount your iPhone to your regular tripod and allows you to take stable shots until your fingers start to bleed (or until you’re done, whichever comes first).

It’s so simple and so ingeniously designed, you’ll wonder how you didn’t think of it yourself.

Check out what Wired Magazine has to say about the Gary Fong Tripod Adapter:

“…despite its basic design and almost complete lack of fancifying, it could be the most practical iPhone tripod mount we’ve seen. There is no need for suction cups, permanently-attached stick-on adapters or even damage-inviting dock-connectors. You simply slip the iPhone in when you need to take a steady picture. Easy…”

Would the good folks at Wired Magazine lie to you? Perhaps. But in this case, they’re right on the money.

If you’re interested, head over to garyfongestore.com and take a look (my detective instincts tell me there may be someone named Gary Fong involved in the operation).

(Note: I have absolutely no financial interest in this product. Even if the company sold a million units simply because of this post, I wouldn’t receive a dime. Which is pretty sad now that I think about it).

 

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Naked Models: Deceptively Real or Really Deceptive

Was the image above “posed”? Since I didn’t take it, I really have no idea. To me, it comes off as a natural, candid, and spontaneous shot. To many people, including myself, those are very favorable traits for a picture to possess.

However, photography is a deceptive medium. It’s impossible for a viewer to know if this photograph was posed or not.

I certainly agree that the natural look of this shot is appealing. However, it’s impossible to know whether this shot was taken in a spontaneous manner or if the model is simply someone who possesses an ability to portray “naturalness.”

Ultimately, does it matter? In my opinion, no. I think it’s a good shot (no matter how it was obtained).

In my work, I’ve found that I’m most likely to capture images such as this one during the “in-between” times that inevitably occur during shoots. For example, it may happen while I’m making a lighting adjustment and the model uses the short break to simply fall into the most comfortable and natural position possible.

“Natural-looking” pictures like this one can be created in a number of ways. And there’s no doubt that they’re usually quite charming.

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The One Unbreakable Rule Of Nude Photography

While looking through some old files, I came across this shot of a girl named Kitty. When I saw it, I knew it would be a good idea to include it here. Not because there’s anything special about the picture itself, but to use it as a visual reminder to those of you who do nude work.

As I’m sure you’ve already noticed, Kitty looks very, very young. Though I can assure you that she was 18-years-old at the time of the shoot, she certainly doesn’t look like it. That’s why I went to great lengths to confirm her age before I even considered picking up a camera.

When it comes to nude models, there’s only one type that you should absolutely never work with. Quite obviously, that’s the underage girl.

Never photograph anyone nude who is under the legal age. It’s impossible for me to stress this enough. Before you even consider setting up a shoot with a model, make sure she’s of legal age.

You’ll need to find out what the minimum age is for your particular location. This advice also applies to those of you reading this who live outside the United States. The legal age differs from state to state and country to country.

Photographing an underage girl is a mistake you never want to make. As I’m sure you’re well aware, the legal ramifications can be extremely serious.

 

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